If you had stopped Gary Wescott on his way to journalism class at San
Diego State University in 1967 and told him he would spend his life
traveling around the World; or if you could have caught Monika Mühlebach
Wescott as she peddled her bicycle home from school in the small Swiss
village of Wiesendangen and tried to explain that she would join Gary
in Mexico ten years later-------well, you might have encountered some
disbelief.
Never-the-less, for the past thirty years these
two intrepid adventurers and photojournalists have globetrotted from
the arid deserts of Afghanistan to the deepest jungles of the Amazon
with sometimes no more than a camera and a backpack. Much of that
time has
been spent exploring the backroads of the Western Hemisphere, including
Mexico, Central and South America. Their travel/adventure stories
are published in periodicals around the World. In the United States
and Canada, the popular Turtle Expedition series has appeared regularly
in FOUR WHEELER Magazine.
While
backpacks are still an important part of the couple's standard equipment,
they do most of their wandering in specially prepared Ford four-wheel
drive trucks. Replacing four previous travel/research vehicles, The
Turtle V is currently under construction. Based on a Super Duty F-550,
it will be carefully outfitted with equipment of proven quality and
reliability. "Through years of experience, we've systematically found
out what works.", said Gary, "In the places we go, reliability becomes
all-important! This is not a vacation."
The Turtle Expedition, Unltd. is sponsored by BFGoodrich, Rain-X,
Ford Motor Company, International Engine Corp., Auto Meter, Packasport,
Bushwacker and PIAA. A list of product sponsors on the truck and custom
Tortuga Expedition Camper reads like a who's-who of the automotive
and outdoor equipment world---Alcoa, Warn, Motorcraft, K&N, Racor,
Everpure, Recaro, Coleman, Dometic, Magic Chef, Norcold, Eureka!,
The North Face, Cascade Designs, Old Town, Sage-----to name but a
few.
In
1989, The Turtle Expedition spent fourteen months exploring South
America. After shipping their vehicle to Colombia, Gary & Monika
drove more than 50,000 miles, (25,000 off pavement), circumnavigating
the continent and crossing it twice. Their path took them from the
snow-bound Andean Mountains, over passes as high as 16,710 ft.; across
the vast Atacama Desert, where in places, a drop of rain had not fallen
in recorded history; and through the jungles of the Amazon Basin in
Peru, Colombia and Brazil, where mud-choked trails were often impassable,
even with four-wheel drive. Barges were needed to travel up swollen
rivers.
In the
Winter of 1996, they embarked on their most ambitious adventure yet,
to drive completely across Russia, including Eastern Siberia, from
the Pacific to the Atlantic Ocean. Siberia alone wraps around one
third of the northern hemisphere and spans ten time zones. Complicated
by the fact that there is no all-weather road across the Far East,
most experts, both Russian and American, said it couldn't be done.
In temperatures which can drop to below -100°F, plastics and rubber
become brittle and even metal can crystallize and snap. Rumored shortages
of food and fuel, and reports of highway robbery had to be contended
with. Using a GPS and U.S. Military Defense Maps, Winter Roads were
followed for over 3,000 miles, including a 600-mile leg on the ice
of the frozen Lena River.
The
Expedition involved more than simply crossing two continents. The
couple took time to explore many parts of the former Soviet Union,
including Lake Baikal, Tuva, and Altai regions. Eleven months and
16,000 miles later, battling the 80-mph winds and 3-foot snowdrifts
of an Arctic gale, The Turtle IV pulled into Hammerfest on the North
Atlantic's Norwegian Sea, the most northern town in the World you
can drive to. To their knowledge, they have become the first foreigners
to ever drive completely across Russia without using trains or barges,
and in all likelihood, no Russian has ever attempted this difficult
route either.
But Hammerfest was only a stepping stone, not the
end of this three-year global circumnavigation. After exploring some
of Central and Southern Europe, sorting through 15,000 slides, and publishing
over 70 magazine articles, the couple retraced their route through Finland
and continued around the World, with stops in Norway, the Faroe Islands,
Iceland, Newfoundland, and Nova Scotia, on their way back to their California
homebase.
Do
they worry about the political instability of some of the countries
they visit? "Well, a little," says Monika, with a slight Swiss accent,
(she speaks five languages), "but what can you do? In over twenty-nine
years we've rarely had a serious problem. It's like the poisonous
snakes and insects of the Amazon. You know they're out there, but
you still go into the jungle. The essence of an adventure is not knowing
how it's going to come out."
While
some will envy Gary and Monika for their unique and exciting lifestyle,
most of us are more inclined to remain armchair adventurers. We must
be content to read---or watch---from a safe distance. The full-time
travels of The Turtle Expedition, Unltd. may look like an endless
vacation. "Actually," says Gary, smiling, "it's a lot of work---but
someone has to do it."