Arriving in Khorog – Tajikistan #5 – July 2014
From our view on the hillside we watched the big semi tractor-trailers inching along the side of the cliff above the river and wondered how they passed each other. The bridge over the silt-laden Vanj had definitely seen better days, but we figured since these monsters could go over it we could too—like there was a choice? The occasional turnout made it possible to squeeze past the big trucks. Glacial melt from the surrounding peaks fed tributaries to the main river, the Panj.
Check out the center support!
Whenever the valley widened we saw more agriculture. Wheat and barley had already been harvested. Bundles of straw and hay were stacked on roofs. Perhaps because of the better soil there was an abundance of wild flowers along the road. The region is famous for their apricots and we were hitting the season at its peak. Young children were selling buckets of ripe fruit on the road side.
The rule for overland travelers in these countries is, “never pass up a water source”. Most homes did not have running water. Often a pipe coming from a spring or a deep well is the communal watering hole. Using a “water thief” adapter we were able to use one of our collapsible hoses to fill up. All of our water, no matter where we get it; river, creek, lake, irrigation ditch or spring; is treated with chlorine and filtered with the dual Everpure system that removes dirt, bacteria and other contaminants and the chlorine, which has killed any remaining cysts and most importantly, viruses. It is the water “purification” system we have used for years.
Everyone we encountered was extremely friendly. Guys and men alike always like cool trucks and the girls and women had a smile for the camera. The road was better now so we made good time and arrived in Khorog just before dark to find a parking place near the airport.
The next morning, we headed into town, and by chance, it was Market Day! No question about that when we saw the traffic. As with all of the markets we had been to in the last couple of months, the selection of products was overwhelming. Hardware, dry goods, clothing, vegetables, fruit, meat and everything in-between. The young girl at the tourist office/gift shop had a captivating smile. She had been an exchange student in the US and wanted to study law.
After a busy day of shopping, we retired to a relaxing tea house in the park next to the Gunt river that divides the city. Returning to our truck, a young boy approached us and invited us to his family home for dinner. Payran had learned English at the American Corner, a center, like a library, for young people to meet and practice English. As you will learn soon, the American Corner will play an important role in our visit to Tajikistan and the “Magic Girl of the Pamirs”. We were starting to like this town in the middle of nowhere.
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- From our view on the hillside we watched the big semi tractor-trailers inching along the side of the cliff above the river and wondered how they passed each other.
-
- We figured since these monsters could go over it we could too—like there was a choice?
-
- The bridge over the silt-laden Vanj had definitely seen better days.
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- Check out the center support!
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- The occasional turnout made it possible to squeeze past the big trucks.
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- The swirls and upheaves in the cliff sides were evidence to the violence these mountains went through as they were formed.
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- Glacial melt from the surrounding peaks fed tributaries to the main river, the Panj.
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- Wheat and barley had already been harvested.
-
- Bundles of straw and hay were stacked on roofs.
-
- Whenever the valley widened we saw more agriculture.
-
- Perhaps because of the better soil there was an abundance of wild flowers along the road. (hollyhock -Alcea- native to Europe and Asia)
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- A penstemon?
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- Russian sage, a popular drought resistant plant in California.
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- We bought a half a bucket of ripe apricots from kids on the side of the road.
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- Using a “water thief” and one of our collapsible hoses we filled our tank from a roadside spigot.
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- We commonly filled our water tank with a “water thief”, a collapsible hose and a spout.
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- A “water thief” is used when the water spicket lacks thread or is of a different thread or size than our system.
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- The dual Everpure system removes dirt, bacteria and other contaminants and the chlorine, which has killed any remaining cysts and most importantly, viruses.
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- Everywhere we stopped we were met with smiles.
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- With Khorog in the background, you can see the Gunt river dividing the city and its delta where it meets the Panj, the border between Tajikistan and Afghanistan.
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- This is not a parking lot! It was market day in Khorog.
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- This was the parking lot. We drove up the street and found a good spot to camp behind the theater.
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- Inside the market hall we could find virtually anything we needed, but there was even more outside.
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- We stocked up on fresh vegetables. We already had a bucket of apricots.
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- Two kinds of bread tempted us, the Russian style loaves and the more traditional round “nan”.
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- Fresh yak, and you know it’s really fresh!!
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- This butcher spoke a little English. He had a great sense of humor.
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- Looking for a special cut? Just point to it.
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- The crowds of shoppers in the outside open market were all looking for the best deal like we were.
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- School must have been out. We smiled at the two young boys sharing a bag of M&Ms.
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- We shopped at this lady’s vegetable stand more than once during our stay.
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- This gal was also a favorite of ours. She sold very fresh produce.
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- With their Indo-European ancestry, Tajik/Pamiri girls were remarkably beautiful. This young girl had been an exchange student in the US and wanted to study law.
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- Payran on the right had learned English at the American Corner. He came to our truck and insisted we had dinner at his home without informing his mother! We presented him with a Frisbee. He was a quick learner.
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- After a busy day of shopping, we retired to a relaxing teahouse in the Park next to the Gunt river that divides the city.
I am interested in your water purification system. Where is the chlorine injected into the water and what ‘kind’ of chlorine do you use? I see two filters in your picture. Is one for coarse filtration and the other for fine particulates? We full-time in a fifth wheel and are presently in Florida.
Thanks for the reply.
Skip Pratt
Hi Skip: Thanks for your note. Yes, we have two water filters, course and fine. We use regular house hold bleach chlorine available most anywhere in the world. Make sure it’s not the new fancy scented or non-splash style they now sell in the States. Some people claim chorine deteriorates in strength with time but we never ever had a problem. Please send us an email to wescott@turtleexpedition.com if you have more questions. Happy New Year, Monika