China # 9 – Heading to Xining, Qinghai Province – September 2014
Getting a late start from the end of the Great Wall of China, we were back on the monotonous highway. Looking for a place to camp, we saw a side road and followed it to a field with hundreds of bags of just-harvested onions, but no one around. We guessed that trucks would be coming in the morning to start loading but it was big and flat, and it had not started to rain yet. We were home. Not our favorite camp, but a memorable (smelly) one. Yes, we snatched a couple of onions laying loose on the ground.
Biking around China for Peace
In the next town we saw a car wash and asked if we could get some water. The only faucet was inside
A parting shot with the Chinese biker promoting Peace.
the garage so it was bucket-time again. Turning off on Hwy 227, the scenery got more interesting as we headed into the Quilian Mountain Range. It seemed strange to come upon a large parking area right next to the road, and even stranger to see a huge billboard advertising motorhomes. We had not seen a single travel trailer or motorhome since entering China. It was a perfect place to stop for lunch. That’s when this friendly and adventurous looking guy peddled up on his overloaded mountain bike. Through our resident translator, Green, we learned that he was riding across all of China to promote peace. He carried a long cloth scroll on which he asked everyone he was happy to meet to write something. Of course we did. He was a real “Overlander”.
Playing Chicken on National Highways
Climbing over a 3,685 m pass, (12,089 ft), we passed through a couple of small towns. Traffic was hilarious or insane. The game is: “Yes I see you. Yes, I know I am in the wrong lane, but I know you are expecting me to come anyway.” It was a relief to arrive at the Olive Branch hotel in Xining. There was good off-street parking for us and a great noodle restaurant just down the street. There was also a KFC outlet, but handmade fresh noodles will win out every time. I was actually getting the hang of chop sticks.
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- Always nice to have the power of our 7.3 turbo diesel engine to get around these monster semi-trucks.
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- A funny fake police man kept an eye on traffic.
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- This working onion field gave us a flat place to park and set up Green’s little MSR two-man tent.
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- Rain overnight intensified the onion smell in the air.
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- The onion field camp was a memorable one.
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- Sometimes a bucket is the only way to transport water to our truck.
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- This sign gave us hope that the road might get more interesting.
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- That’s one way to identify your flock of sheep. Paint them all blue. Keeps the honest people honest too.
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- As we climbed higher herds of yaks grazed on the grassy hillsides.
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- These fields of hand harvested and stacked grain gave an impression of the huge amount of manual labor used.
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- Neatly laid out fields created a colorful pattern.
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- If you can stack it on, it must be legal.
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- We were surprised to see this billboard advertising motorhomes and pick-up campers.
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- This young adventure asked us to write something on his rolling travel scroll. He was riding across all of China to promote Peace.
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- Green translated our names and our message of safe travels.
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- Under our message, this biker for peace wished us a safe journey, lasting friendship among the US and China and Peace for the World.
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- We showed him a copy of the Overland Journal, a magazine we write for.
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- We could not resist stopping at this stand selling dried mushrooms.
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- Green gave the mushrooms her expert nose test.
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- Monika bought a string of mushrooms and I was wondering how many great sauces she and Green could create.
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- This little creek gave us a chance to wash off some of the mud from our onion field camp.
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- Street sweeping employs many people in China.
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- If you can’t find work, the Chinese government employs you as a street cleaner.
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- Locals were surprised to see foreigners in their town but were happy to pose for a quick photo.
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- 37 different ethnic groups live in Quinghai Province. Xining, where we stopped for the night, is the capital.
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- These single cylinder flywheel driven workhorses were becoming more common.
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- We serpentined up a long set of switchbacks to this lofty pass, 12,089 ft, (3,685 m)
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- To pass or not to pass, that was often the question. Go for it! Oncoming traffic is expecting you to be crazy, so it’s OK.
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- You will notice that traffic is going against oncoming traffic. It’s normal. It’s a game Chinese drivers play.
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- Master noodle chefs practice their art. It’s a great show and great food.
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- Little meat-filled dumplings were this woman’s specialty.
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- The special sauces are mixed to order, hot or mild—or Chernobyl.
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- Beautiful chopping block but maybe would not pass the health inspector.
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- Looks like Gary is getting the hang of chopsticks.
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- These fried onion cakes were to die for.
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- The family working at the little noodle restaurant were happy we had come. We were too.
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- The KFC outlet didn’t stand a chance against handmade noodles.
Yep! they play chicken on the roads, very nerve-wracking! But it all seems to flow without any tempers or road rage which is amazing.
Green had to calm us down a lot!